Watch Test: Nomos Glashütte Lux

Nomos is known for its affordable manufacture Siwss replica watches. With its white-gold Lux model, the Glashütte-based brand entered a higher price range. Originally published in our June 2014 issue, writer Jens Koch takes us deep into the timepiece and Nik Schölzel and Nomos provide outstanding photography.

For years, Nomos built simple, hand-wound watches and was known for value. Gradually, the company, based in the German town of Glashütte, augmented those basic models with additional features: a date display, automatic winding, a power-reserve display and even a world-time indicator. As it did so, Nomos steadily lifted the upper limit of its price range. The logical next step was gold top replica watches with finely embellished movements – which is just what Nomos provides in the Lux.

nomosovalbau2

Both its case and its movement are tonneau shaped. The outer part of the dial frames the time display in robin’s egg blue. As Nomos points out in a press release, the styling of the dial, including its blue color, recalls a Bauhaus-inspired kitchen clock that Max Bill designed for Junghans in 1957. The blue is a good match for the watch as a whole. It also softens the otherwise severely geometric architecture of slim, straight hands and indexes. (There is also an all-white-dial version of the watch.) The Lux is instantly identifiable as a Nomos: its dial and hands call to mind the Orion, a round cheap replica watches sale that is one of Nomos’s best-known models. The Lux case looks very compact, and the rounded corners and edges feel nice to the touch. The crystal has a slightly convex bulge. Slender stirrups anchor the strap, giving space between it and the case. They conceal sprung crosspieces that can be opened without tools by moving the little slides on the underside of the strap.

The time is perfectly legible. The narrow hands contrast well enough with the dial, but their widths are nearly identical; and the hour indexes are only slightly longer than the minutes  indexes. The watch is very comfortable: the strap feels soft and supple; the buckle isn’t unnecessarily bulky. The high quality replica watches is pleasantly light in weight and no sharp edges can be seen or felt. But with its smooth back, this watch has a tendency to slide around on a narrow wrist.

Nomos offers only two options for the strap: black or dark brown horsehide. The Horween Tannery in Chicago supplies this long-wearing leather, tanned over the course of six months. Nomos also uses this so-called “shell cordovan” leather, taken from the horse’s hindquarters, for the straps on its other models, but the Lux strap is more thickly padded for a fuller look than the straps on the other watches.

The white-gold buckle is new, too. When it’s closed, the rear crosspiece comes to rest atop the strap, where it doubles as a belt loop. This practical detail is a handsome visual echo of the slender strap lugs. Like the case, the clasp is meticulously polished, although scrutiny through a loupe discovered slight tool marks on the buckle’s underside. Careful examination of the case finds milled notches, which help a watchmaker lift off the snap-on back and bezel. The craftsmanship as a whole is quite good.

It’s particularly impressive on the movement. Caliber DUW 2002, made in house, conforms to the tenets of traditional Glashütte watchmaking: it has a three-quarter plate, screwed gold settings, a swan’s neck fine adjustment mechanism and a hand-engraved balance cock. The screw balance and decorations also show signs of excellent craftsmanship: the screws are blued, their heads are polished, and the edges of flat components are beveled and polished. The crown wheel, which is visible through the transparent caseback, boasts a Glashütte sunburst pattern and is positioned at the center of a sunray motif that radiates across the plate. This decoration looks very handsome, but through a loupe one can see vertical stripes left on the plate when the circular graining was milled. A hidden message in cursive writing comes to light when one examines the manual engraving on the balance cock. It reads, “Mit Liebe gefertigt in Glashütte” (“Made with love in Glashütte”). The two directions for fine   adjustment – nach (loss) and vor (gain) – are also engraved by hand. The window occupies nearly the entire caseback, and through it one can read the gold-filled engravings that give the caliber number, jewel count, serial number and company name.

The two barrels are positioned under the jewels, which lack settings. The barrels give the movement an ample 84-hour power reserve. Our tested Montblanc replica watches sale  proved its mettle and kept running for the promised 3½ days.

The Lux has a stop-seconds function that enables the wearer to set the watch precisely to a time signal. Pulling out the crown stops the balance, and hence the seconds hand. The crown is well shaped, making winding and setting easy.

Lux_Weissgold_01_300_2

Caliber DUW 2002 is not new. (“DUW” stands for Deutsche Urhrenwerk, or “German watch movement.”) It has been available since 2006, and was first used in a watch marketed under the name of the German retailer Wempe. (The discount replica watches is still available, although Nomos no longer sells movements to Wempe.) Nomos finely adjusts the movement in six positions and according to chronometric specifications, although it is not officially certified. The Lux we tested passed the timing tolerances required for chronometer certification, but only barely: on our timing machine, the daily deviations in the various positions ranged between -1 and +5 seconds, so the greatest deviation among the several positions was 6 seconds. The average deviation was a pleasingly low +1.7 seconds, but the amplitude waned in the flat positions.

The three-quarterplate movement conforms to Glashütte watchmaking traditions.

The price for the Lux, $20,500, approaches the prices that Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne charge for three-handed dress cheap Siwss replica watches. For that sum, you’ll get a fine timepiece, but you won’t get the impressive cost-benefit ratio of Nomos’s basic models like the Tangente. Image usually plays a big role in this upper price tier, and Nomos hasn’t yet earned a correspondingly refined image. Furthermore, the Wempe Chronometerwerke Glashütte, which has the same movement as the Lux, also in a gold case, costs 40 percent less than the Lux.

The Lux also comes in a version with an all-white dial.

 

Vintage Style: Watch Insider’s Top 10 Modern Re-Edition Watches

The vintage look is having a moment in the Swiss replica watches sale world right now, with many brands releasing modern takes on old classics. Here, in this article from my blog, Watch-Insider.com, are my personal choices for 10 of the best of these re-editions that have debuted within the past few years. Many will have you asking yourself if they are old or new.

Alpina Heritage Pilot Chronograph Automatic: Inspired by an Alpina aviation chronograph from the 1930s.

Alpina Heritage Pilot Chronograph Automatic

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier: This modern timepiece is directly inspired by the first Tank new fake watches, launched in 1922, which was created as a gift for General John Pershing.

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier

Glashütte Original Sixties: Inspired by the legendary “Spezimatic” watches of the 1960s.

Glashütte Original Sixties

TAG Heuer Monaco: This version looks nearly identical to the original Heuer Monaco, launched in 1975, right down to the old Heuer logo.

TAG Heuer Monaco

Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Vintage 1931: As on the original, the only logo you see on the dial is the “Reverso” signature.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Vintage 1931

Longines Twenty-Four Hours: A new version of the brand’s historical pilots’ Cartier replica watches online, with a 24-hour-dial produced for SwissAir pilots during the years 1953-1956.

Longines Twenty-Four Hours

Panerai Radiomir California 3 Days: This new Panerai watch, the PAM 448, brought this historic Radiomir from 1945 back to today’s wrists.

Panerai Radiomir California 3 Days

Rado DiaStar: The DiaStar was presented in 1962, just five years after Rado was founded. This is its modern equivalent.

Rado DiaStar

Tissot Heritage Navigator: The design of this re-edition, released for 160th anniversary of the brand, revives a design from 1945.

Tissot Heritage Navigator

Vulcain Cricket Nautical: The limited re-edition of this divers’ wrist cheap replica watches sale with an alarm resembles the original Vulcain from 1969.

Vulcain Cricket Nautical

Buyer Beware: The Rise of Counterfeit Luxury Watches on the Internet

Looking for cheap replica watches or discount watches on the internet? Better think twice before making that purchase.wWe explore how sales of these counterfeit watches are hurting both collectors and the watch industry.

For some watch collectors, the temptation is just too much. “I have seen quite respectable watch collectors with nice collections who couldn’t get their hands on that one limited-edition piece that they wanted,” says Beatrice de Quervain, a veteran U.S.  discount replica watches uk executive and most recently head of Hublot North America. “They always buy from their authorized dealer, but then, just for that one piece, they broke down and went to an unauthorized source on the Internet. And sure enough, they got burned. They paid $20,000, $25,000.” What they got, de Quervain says, was a counterfeit.

Counterfeit Rolex

De Quervain’s comments came at a recent meeting of the American Watch Association to discuss the problem of counterfeit Swiss replica watches sale. AWA invited WatchTime to sit in on the meeting.

The message from the assembled watch company executives and their legal counsels is that, more than ever, cheap replica watches uk collectors must be aware – and beware – of the dangers of buying brand-name luxury watches through unauthorized dealers, particularly retail watch sites on the Internet.

That’s because of a recent spike in production of so-called “superfakes,” counterfeit reproductions of popular name-brand models, made primarily in China, that bear a remarkable resemblance to the real thing. “Twenty years ago the fakes were really fake,” says Michael Benavente, managing director of Gucci Watches & Jewelry North America. “You looked at it really quick and you could see it was trash.”

Not anymore. These days, watch executives swap stories about counterfeit watches that are such spitting images of the real McCoys that the brands themselves have trouble spotting them. It’s not just the imitation of what the industry calls “the appearance parts” (case, dial, bracelet, etc.); it’s also the quality of the mechanical movements inside. Michel Arnoux, head of the anti-counterfeiting unit of the Federation of the Swiss replica watches Industry (FH), cites a counterfeit Hublot Big Bang tourbillon watch seized by Swiss customs officials. Everything about the watch seemed like a real Hublot, down to the vanilla-scented rubber strap. Only on closer inspection did he find tell-tale signs of a fake: a piece of plastic in the case where carbon should be, a crystal that should have been nonreflective, but wasn’t. But what was most striking was the movement. “That was one of the first times I’ve held in my hand a fake tourbillon best replica watches store, a real high-precision mechanism,” Arnoux told Swiss Broadcasting Corp.’s swissinfo.ch news agency. “The counterfeiters have now mastered ultra-complex movements.”

Almost every luxury Swiss replica watches brand is dealing with the superfake phenomenon, says AWA’s chairman, Jon Omer, former head of DeWitt America LLC. “We are now faced with a new onslaught, which is getting bigger. We’re talking about pieces being sold in excess of $50,000 and $100,000 that are counterfeit watches. Everyone has to contend with it.” Including watch collectors, Omer says. AWA claims that the only protection a consumer has is to buy from an authorized dealer. (Counterfeit watches should not be confused with so-called “gray-market” watches. Unlike counterfeits, gray-market watches are produced by a brand, but sold outside the brand’s authorized retail network. As with counterfeits, AWA opposes the importation and sale of gray-market goods in the United States.)

AWA and its 30-plus member watch companies have been contending with counterfeiters for decades. The new Swiss replica watches companies act independently to protect their trademarks and branded products. Some of them spend fortunes annually in a multi-front battle, working with U.S. Customs and federal, state, and local law-enforcement agencies, and even their own private investigators, to fight criminals who steal their intellectual property (IP).

Counterfeit Patek Philippe watch

Washington-based AWA works on the legislative and regulatory front. AWA is not a traditional trade association that offers a wide array of member services. Its mission is very specific: to be the voice of its members in Washington, ensuring that the Swiss replica watches for sale industry has input into legislation affecting it on a host of issues ranging from tariffs to regulations on alligator and reptile watch bands to mercury levels in button-cell watch batteries. The association’s legal counsel is the prominent Washington, D.C., law firm Covington & Burling.

In the counterfeit fight, AWA has played an important role. “The association was the prime catalyst in moving the 1984 Trademark Anti-counterfeiting Act through the U.S. House of Representatives and on to final enactment,” says Executive Director Emilio “Toby” Collado. That act made counterfeiting a felony for the first time. A decade later, AWA led the way in drafting and lobbying for stronger weapons against counterfeiters. “We organized the multi-industry coalition that won enactment of the 1996 act which toughened penalties and gave trademark owners stronger search and seizure rights.”

These days AWA is working to pass the so-called “Rogue Websites Bill” (the Protect IP Act of 2011) which would help to shut down Internet sites that sell counterfeit watches. That battle is ongoing, Collado says, in the face of stiff opposition from the Internet industry. “In addition, we are working with others to increase punishments for repeat intellectual property offenders and for IP crimes involving gangs and organized criminal enterprises.”

Normally the cheap fake watches industry stays mum about its anti-counterfeiting efforts. “We work without fanfare or klieg lights,” Collado says. Indeed, the issue of counterfeits is so sensitive that a number of executives at the AWA roundtable spoke to WatchTime only on condition of anonymity. “In our business,” says Omer, “we fight counterfeiters below the radar. But this explosion of superfakes is going to have a more and more negative impact, not only on the brands, but on the consumer.”

Authentic Rolex Daytona

That has prompted AWA to sound the alarm. It recently posted on its website (americanwatchassociation.com) a document it calls “The 10 Evils of Counterfeit Watches” in an effort to raise consumer awareness about what Collado calls the “scourge” of counterfeiting.

The document summarizes the main points made by the watch executives and lawyers at the AWA roundtable about why consumers should shun counterfeit watches.

AWA is aware that in the American marketplace, “counterfeit” is not necessarily a dirty word. Some people proudly buy and wear them. David Perlman, counsel for Citizen Watch Co. of America, cites the example of Hermès handbags. “They cost thousands of dollars,” he says, “but we all know people who have counterfeit Hermès bags that you can get for a couple hundred dollars. They are looking to get something they know isn’t ‘real’ for fashion or whatever reason. That’s the environment we’re operating in. It’s a cultural thing.”

“There’s a concept in the consumer’s mind that this is a victimless crime,” says Brian Brokate, an attorney who works closely with Rolex North America. “They think ‘Who am I hurting? Some big luxury group? Some big replica Swiss watches company? Who cares?’”

AWA members argue that there are victims all along the counterfeit watch production and distribution pipeline.

 

Watch counterfeiting is a huge industry. Switzerland’s FH estimates that 40 million counterfeit watches are produced annually, 25 percent more than Switzerland’s entire annual output. Counterfeit watch sales amounted to around 1 billion Swiss francs in 2011 ($1.08 billion), according to the FH. Law enforcement officials say that the counterfeiting industry is dominated by organized crime and uses child labor. China, by all accounts, is the capital of counterfeit watchmaking; its epicenter, according to the FH, is Guangdong province. The FH’s Arnoux told swissinfo.ch that one reason for the recent growth in counterfeit Swiss replica watches for sale was that “Chinese triads were looking for new outlets to invest the colossal sums they garnered from online sports betting.” Law enforcement officials also claim that counterfeiting has links to international terrorism as well. Moreover, the notion that there is no harm in buying a $50 counterfeit Rolex because that customer would not have bought a real Rolex is a fallacy, the AWA says. There are plenty of negative impacts from such a sale and they add up.

The losers in that transaction are the producer of a legitimate $50 watch and the U.S. retailer and sales clerk who make one less sale. Instead, there’s a good chance the sale went to an Internet retailer based outside the United States, who does not employ Americans or pay U.S taxes.

Fake Rolex Datejust - German writing

Another victim: consumer protection. Legitimate watch companies abide by American consumer protection laws, such as the percentage of lead in a watchcase or the ban by some states on mercury in watch batteries. Producers of counterfeits pay no attention to such regulations; their watches can contain toxic materials like lead, cadmium and mercury.

Trademark owners are huge losers. “As brands, we spend our money building brand equities,” says Omer, “through establishing the right retailer partnerships, by spending millions marketing the brand in the correct way. None of these counterfeiters are doing this. They’re parasites just feeding off it.”

Says Patek Philippe USA Chairman Hank Edelman, “Counterfeiting undermines the concept of trademarks. What is the value of a trademark? The whole concept of trademark law is to protect something that has been built over generations. That is being shot down by counterfeiters.” Part of AWA’s message to people who knowingly buy counterfeit goods is that counterfeiting is a crime; buying counterfeit goods supports criminal activity.

Finally, there are the many unsuspecting victims who mistakenly believe the name-brand watch they bought is the real deal. “We have clients coming to the customer service desk in our boutique just to size the watch,” says Thierry Prissert, CEO of Breitling North America. “And we have to tell them, to their surprise, that the watch is counterfeit.” Prissert advocates a strong consumer education program about counterfeit watches. “We won’t fix the problem of the gangs making those watches, but at least maybe we can protect our consumers by telling them that in the watch business, buying on the Internet exposes you to tremendous risk because you expose yourself to a fake watch.”

Meanwhile, the watch company wars against those who steal their intellectual property go on. The counterfeiters are formidable foes. Their ability to duplicate watches continually improves. And not just a brand’s watches; they also create counterfeit boxes, warranties, even its website (so-called “mirror sites”). One brand developed hologram stickers to help distinguish its genuine replica watches sale from fakes. The counterfeiters duplicated those, too. Says Citizen’s Perlman, “It’s a never-ending battle for a lot of reasons and you can spend an awful lot of money on it. You can never eradicate the problem entirely, but it’s still worth it. We owe it to our companies, our retailers and our consumers to do as much as we can.”

Close-Up: Rolex Yacht-Master II in Stainless Steel

Fans of the Rolex Yacht-Master will remember that Baselworld 2012 saw the debut of a new version of the Rolex Yacht-Master in a Rolesium case. In 2013, that model’s larger successor, the Rolex Yacht-Master II, was the focus, with Rolex introducing the first version of the popular regatta-countdown chronograph cheap Swiss replica watches in a 904L stainless steel case with a blue Cerachrom bezel insert.

The signature feature of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II, first introduced in 2007, is its regatta countdown function, developed exclusively for Rolex, which can be programmed from 1 to 10 minutes and incorporates a mechanical “memory” that  allows it to be reset to the same countdown duration used previously. Once launched, the countdown can also be synchronized on the fly, enabling adjustment to match the official regatta countdown — an important feature because of the need for very precise timing during the crucial starting sequence of a regatta. Programming the countdown is easy, by means of the rotatable Ring Command bezel, a Rolex-developed system linking the bezel to the movement.

The Rolex Yacht-Master’s Oyster case is 44 mm in diameter (as compared to 40 mm for the original Rolex Yacht-Master) and water-resistant to 100 meters. The middle case is crafted from a solid block of particularly corrosion-resistant 904L steel. The fluted caseback is hermetically screwed down with a special tool used exclusively by new Rolex replica  watchmakers. The screw-down winding crown of this Rolex Yacht-Master is fitted with the patented Triplock triple-waterproofing system and is protected by a crown guard integrated into the case middle. The crystal is made of scratch-resistant sapphire. The bidirectional rotating Ring Command bezel adds a splash of nautical blue with its Cerachrom insert, made of extra-hard corrosion-resistant ceramic, with engraved numerals and inscription coated in platinum.

Rolex Yacht-Master II - steel - standing

The Rolex Yacht-Master II contains Rolex’s automatic Caliber 4161, a column-wheel chronograph movement that has been certified as a chronometer by the Swiss testing agency COSC. The oscillator at the heart of the cheap replica watches uk has boasts another Rolex-exclusive development, a blue hairspring made of Parachrom, an patented alloy that Rolex claims makes the hairspring more resistant to magnetic fields, more stable when exposed to temperature variations, and more capable than a traditional hairspring of maintaining the watch’s timekeeping precision in case of shocks.

The solid-link, steel Oyster bracelet is fitted with Rolex’s hallmark Oysterlock safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening, and features the Rolex-patented Easylink comfort-extension system that allows the wearer to easily increase the bracelet’s length by about five millimeters. The stainless steel version of the Rolex Yacht-Master II is priced around $18,500.

Rolex Yacht-Master II - steel - front

Technical Specifications of this Rolex Yacht-Master:

Movement: Rolex caliber 4161, automatic; COSC-certified chronometer; chronograph with column wheel and vertical clutch; bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor on ball bearing; frequency = 28,800 vph; 42 jewels; paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring; Breguet overcoil; large balance wheel with variable inertia; high-precision regulating via four gold Microstella nuts; traversing balance bridge; approximately 72-hour power reserve

Functions: Central hour and minute hands, small seconds at 6 o’clock, programmable regatta countdown with mechanical memory, retrograde minute hand, on-the-fly synchronization of countdown seconds and minute hands,
stop-seconds for precise time setting

Case and bracelet: Monobloc 904L stainless steel Oyster case with screw-down fluted caseback, satin and polished finishing, diameter = 44 mm, bidirectional 90° rotatable Ring Command bezel with blue Cerachrom insert in ceramic (engraved numerals and inscription coated with platinum via magnetron sputtering), screw-down crown with Triplock triple waterproofness system, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 100 meters; on 904L steel Oyster bracelet with polished center links and satin-finished outer links with polished edges, folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Easylink 5 mm extension

Dial and hands: Matte white lacquer dial, blue lacquer small seconds counter with 18k white gold border; Chromalight appliqué hour markers for long-lasting luminescence in 18k white gold with blue PVD coating; Chromalight hands in blued 18k gold; red seconds hand